Thursday, April 14th: Zafra to Villafranca de los Barros

13.1 miles

Pleasant exit from Zafra onto a country road. After about 5 km, we came to the town of Los Santos de Maimona—population 8000; a former Roman town and important center of the Knights of Santiago (St. James). The Iglesia de Nuestra Senora de los Angeles has a pleasant interior and a noteworthy Plateresque door of forgiveness (Puerta del Perdon).

Detail from Puerta del Perdon

People were working on floats for the Semana Santa parades inside the church.

Semana Santa (Holy Week) float

After leaving the town, we had a little difficulty route finding.

In general, walking a camino is a little like ”following the yellow brick road.” You follow the Camino yellow arrows. Unfortunately, at times, you may have a plethora of conflicting arrows as when we entered Fuente de Cantos. At other times, arrows may be sparse, such as when entering or leaving a big city. If you happen to miss an arrow…!

Official camino signage

It is best to supplement with some kind of navigational app. I am using AlllTrails supplemented by the maps on the very basic ”Wise Pilgrim” app. Close to and in towns, we often use Google maps. Stephen has been very good about reminding me to check that we’re going the right way!

More frequent kind of signage: you don’t want to miss any turns!
Route marker signifying that you are walking on the Camino (yellow) and simultaneously on a Roman road (green)

Figs, other fruit trees (almonds, peaches?), vineyards and olive groves and Extremaduran red clay (very messy when wet). (“Barros” means clay or mud.)

Giant fennel

Many wild orchids, thyme, sages and other salvias, borage, giant fennel, wild daisies, corn camomile, Patterson’s Curse (ubiquitous and poisonous to horses but pretty purple flowers).

Patterson’s Curse

Vegetable gardens: artichokes, fava beans, chard.

Stand of bamboo.

Short walk along highway before following another country road into Villafranca los Barros

Villafranca de los Barros (pop. 13,000) is a lively town of white washed houses with a number of pleasant squares where people socialize.

We are staying in a 3 star hotel in the less attractive modern town. Our room is basic but clean (45 euros). It has marble floors. There is a restaurant and cafeteria.

Leave a Reply