We arrived in Seville to sunny skies and high sixties temperatures. In contrast to Switzerland, COVID numbers are low but masks are required indoors.
Our hotel was on a quiet lane in the Barrio Santa Cruz, a popular tourist area that was once (prior to their expulsion in 1492), home to Seville’s Jewish population.
Although it rained some during much of our stay, we had a lovely time revisiting sights we had seen in 2010 with the kids, as well as seeing new ones.
We ate Lebanese/Moroccan food and sea food and tapas, some of it quite excellent. On Wednesday evening, we ate at a very fancy restaurant serving food made with locally sourced ingredients which may have been my downfall (see below).
We took a private walking tour of a section of the Barrio Santa Cruz with a focus on the Jewish experience in Seville. Not surprisingly, after so many centuries, there are few tangible reminders. However, it was interesting getting one Spaniard’s take on the expulsion and the Spanish Inquisition.
Thursday, April 7
Our plan was to hike the first section of the Via de la Plata (VDLP) to Guillena (a basically flat stage of about 13.5 miles) but to return to Seville to spend the night. It was not to be. I was unable to continue past the Roman site of Italica (roughly 8 miles short of our destination) because of a stomach bug. One highlight of that first day was the walk along the river. The area has a somewhat seedy reputation. However, it seems to have been cleaned up and the abundance and variety of wild flowers at this time of year made the walk almost pleasurable even though I was feeling less than 100 percent. Another highlight was visiting the Italica site even though I readily confess that I was in no condition to appreciate it!
Italica was the birthplace of the emperors Hadrian and Trajan and quite a few Roman senators. Much of it is buried under the town of Santiponce. However, you can visit the huge amphitheater (built in the time of Hadrian) which could seat 20,000-25,000 people, as well as several houses. Incidentally, the amphitheater was the Dragon Pit in the Game of Thrones.
